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« 18th August - Budapest in one piece - just about!
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24th August - Caransebes, Romania

Greetings from Caransebes in deepest Romania.

To my undying shame, I did something on my last rest day that I’d vowed I’d never do - went on a sight-seeing tour. The hotel was acting as an agent for one of the local companies and I joined all the other ‘oldies’ on a 3 hour coach trip with a multi-lingual tour guide and spent the afternoon soaking up the culture whilst being entertained by the very knowledgible middle aged lady who slipped effortlessly from Hungarian to German to French to English and back again. It’s all a bit of a blur now and the only thing I can remember is that the country was founded in 800 AD by a bunch of guys who rode down from the Urals. A fearsome bunch they were too by the look of their statues that adorned one of the many squares. It is a beautiful city though. I had a lovely meal that evening in the centre of town then headed back up the hill to Buda for a good night’s sleep in preparation for the rigours of the road again.

I decided to leave Budapest on Route 5 which meant cycling back into the Centre, crossing the River and working my way along it’s north bank until I could pick up the signs for it. If it was possible, I would say that the road surface out towards the suburbs was even worse than on the way in and the traffic just a chaotic as it moved through a jumble of roads, railway lines, tram lines and crumbling buildings which looked as if they’d been untouched since Communist days. The only difference this time was that I was fresh and knew roughly what to expect. Eventually I spied signs for route 5 and, as will all Hungarian towns and cities, the further from the centre one goes the better the road surface becomes. It was apparent that Route 5 also fed traffic from the City centre to two motorways. Once past their junctions, about 18 kms out, the traffic eased somewhat and the ride became almost enjoyable. The rain held off and I found a pleasant little camp site near Kecskemet. Unusually, it wasn’t anywhere near water, so no mosquitos. After cooking some pasta with a tin of vegetables, I was able to listen to the BBC World Service with my antenna fully extended from a tree - a good signal for once. As I was snuggling into my sleeping bag I heard English being spoken by some people who’d just arrived and were setting up their tent. In the morning I had a long chat with two Irish Lads who’d flown from Dublin to Budapest and cycled down to Kecskemet the day before. They’d had the same experience of road surface and traffic and, although they intended cycling down to Greece, were on the verge of modifying their plans. I left them to their deliberations.

I continued down Route 5 heading for Szeged (see if you can pronounce that one!) because it had a camp site marked on the map. On the outskirts of town I saw a sign which showed the site to be 7 km away, in the opposite direction to mine. It was still early so I decided it was worth the effort, even though the road surface was appalling. The camp site signs eventually directed me up a rutted track and into some woods - it was looking a bit remote even by Hungarian standards. I rounded a bend and was confronted by a lake with a little wooden booth by way of a reception. Beyond that I could see tents - but the people around them had no clothes on. It dawned on me before I was told by the woman in the booth - I’d fetched up at a naturist camp site. When I declined to remove my clothes, she kindly directed me to another part of the woods where the conventional site was. This was a far better proposition. A large site set in the trees with good facilities and an ever open restaurant, albeit with a limited menu. The lake had been turned into a sort of lido so, after putting up my tent, my swimming costume went on and I had a most welcome swim before doing anything else. As it was likely to be my last night in Hungary, I had a real goulash in the resturant that evening.

A good breakfast the next morning saw me pedaling the 12 kms towards the centre of Szeged before continuing eastwards towards the Romanian border. Once through town and onto the open road, a relentless easterly wind sprang up and made the going difficult. Try as I may, I couldn’t get my knees to move the bike at any more than 17 kph. I finally made the border at about 3 o’clock. As I crossed into my sixth country, for the first time, my passport was stamped - I couldn’t work out whether this was a good or bad sign. As soon as I cleared the border post, I was accosted by a legion of touts and hawkers of all descriptions - perhaps not a good sign! From previous experience I thought it best to change my money as soon as possible, so stopped at the first ‘official looking’ money changer I came to. My 12,000 forints purchased me no less than 1,190,000 Romanian Lei - I really was a millionaire this time! Acording to the map, the next 40 kms or so of the route looked to have no habitation so I booked into the first hotel in the border town of Nadlac. Reality set in as far as the money was concerned as soon as I parted with 350,000 lei for my seedy hotel room, without breakfast.

So, some memories of Hungary.

Firstly, the wavy tarmac - I’ve never seen anything quite like it; even on the early built roads of Saudi Arabia which had deteriorated quickly. If you can imagine being on the sea shore and looking out to the point just beyond where the waves break, then imagine that petrified, this is what it’s like; all peaks and troughs. With potholes and manic drivers too, it makes for hairy cycling.

I was very surprised on my first day in Hungary to be acosted by a young, mini-skirted working girl who emerged from a layby in the middle of nowhere. This happened on many occassions. It seems prostitution is a rural activity, instead of confined to the cities as in most countries. I’m no expert I hasten to add! This is purely observation. I’ve subseqently noticed that it seems to be confined to the truck stops in Romania.

I have endless shopping anecdotes which are too numerous to mention, but I must just relate one. I spied the biggest Tesco supermaket that you could imagine on the outskirts of one town and, needing some bananas, decided to give it a try. It had a lot of parallels with Tescos at home but seemed to give more space to non food goods. The vegetables weren’t of such good quality but the noteworthy part was the fish counter. The centre piece was a large fish tank crammed full of about 18inch long fish trying to swim around. I watched as a man made his choice and the woman behind the counter promptly picked up a large net, scooped the poor thing out into a basin then into an ordinary Tescos carrier bag, wieghed it and off went the satisfied customer with the bag flapping away by his side. Just after that, one of the fish made a bid for freedom and landed on the floor beside an unsuspecting woman who screamed. I tried picking it up by the tail to put it back in the tank but, as any angler knows, it’s hopeless, they’re far too slippery. An assistant finally noticed what was going on, hooked his fingers behind its gills and plonked it back in the tank. Can you imagine such goings on in Tescos in Bradford or Bury?

I saw my first Trabant car - that long waited for status symbol of the communist era - early on in Slovakia and quite a few since, along with beat up Ladas. Although to be fair, most of the cars on Hungarian roads are the usual mix of models that you’d see anywhere else in Europe.

Lastly, Storks. I saw these literally ’storking’ across the fields almost as soon as I’d crossed the border; nests too but it wasn’t ’till Romania that I saw the classic two storks on their nest on top of an electricity pole.

Back to the journey:

After Nadlac I headed due east towards a town called Arad. It was the only sensible route from the border and I wanted to try and get to grips with this strange currency. The first bank I came to was, believe it or not, the Bank of Transilvania. When I’d finally determined that they didn’t accept Visa, I had my wallet in hand and had the mischevious idea of offering my blood donor card to see if they’d take some O rh Negative; but the joke would’ve been entirely lost on the woman behind the counter, whose English was only marginally better than my Romanian. The next bank along the street was ringed by police, with what was obiviously a plain clothes policeman in the doorway. He barred my entry and managed to convey the message “come back tomorrow”. I think the bank had just been robbed! Finally, I spied a cash machine next to an ordnary looking store which actually offered me the choice of selecting English and drew out what I think will be sufficient money for a while. I’ve had the money system explained to me a couple of times but still can’t quite figure it out. It seems if you simply take 10,000 off everything you have the working currency. But being weaned on pounds, shillings and pence, all these naughts just confuse me. So far though, I think that everyone who I’ve proffered my wad of millions to - hotelliers, shopkeepers, waiters etc - has only taken what is due.

After Arad I completed a 110 km day in a place called Timisoara - in pouring rain, thunder and lighting again. Booked into a decent hotel and dodged the showers to a restaurant for dinner. I got the English speaking hotel receptionist to write down in Romanian what I should order.

I had the usual problems the next morning finding my way out of town and onto my chosen route and at one point, on the advice of a taxi driver, decided to take some back roads for the first leg of the journey. It only worked out to be 3 kms longer but the surface was not good. Not as bad as in town but not good. The only advantage was the absence of the long distance trucks, which can be very intimidating on the main roads. I’ve suffered this in both Hungary and Romania. With my bright yellow tabard and helmet, I rely on them seeing me in good time and, mostly, they give me a wide berth. The problem is when there’s traffic comming the other way too. No one is inclined to slow down and often I’m squeezed so tightly that it’s a near thing. I’m constantly eyeing up the road for places to fall into without doing too much damage. Most of the time, it’s a matter of hunching down, gripping the bars tightly and riding out the slip stream. Anyway, after half the leg of my journey, I went back onto the main route to Caransebes and, to my surprise, the truck traffic was considerably lighter. I arrived on outskirts of the town in the now customary thunder, lightning and heavy rain and dived into the first hotel I came to. After a shower, I enquired about internet facilities and was told that there was some in town. A guy outside the hotel gestured me into his car, drove me to the centre of town and dumped me in this crumbling old building in front of a door marked ‘internet club’. I did an hour or so of e mailing, went and had some dinner and made my way back to the hotel. I’m having a rest day today and have come back to said internet club to file this. I still have no idea where I am - some sort of ministry building perhaps.

Well, tomorrow’s route has no alternative - it’s main roads or bust. I think I’m going to have to learn to like Romania, and Bulgaria after that, as it’s going to take me some time to get down through to Turkey.

More later.

This entry was posted on Wednesday, August 24th, 2005 at 10:52 am and is filed under Ernie's Journeys. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site. Edit this entry.

20 Responses to “24th August - Caransebes, Romania”

  1. Stu Says:
    August 24th, 2005 at 9:55 pm e

    Excellent!

    Naturists, prostitutes, the famous Transylvanian O-rh-negative scam, and mysterious government facilities… you’re getting the hang of this reportage lark!

    (Get the camera out in those Romanian “lay-by’s” though… ;) )

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